The extra dollars for a cabin on the Princess Lomaivitti was well worth it. It was even better when the crying child across the hall finally fell asleep. My cabin had its own clean sink and toilet which is worth the fare alone. Port side window with a view of a black sea, comfortable mattress if somewhat dodgy bedding, a place to plug in chargers that worked and even a phone to the Purser which I did not try. It was a lumpy crossing and by 7 am I was up in the Coastal Café for breakfast. Canadians should never complain about BC Ferries food. Sausage and eggs was all that was available, or I could have taken the cold pancakes. But my choice was cold as well. While we would be docked in Suva shortly after 9, I would then have my heavy bags to contend with and I needed to focus on finding a bus to Sigatoka. I sipped tea as I had a table mid ships over the bow and could counter the roll of the sea much better by sitting there.
Docking was swift, the trucks were driven off, one newish Mitsubishi lorry was towed, and the passengers were released to the car deck to disembark. I collected my heavy bags from the storage locker near the ramp just as the rain briefly stopped. Perhaps it was the size of my bags but other cabbies ignored me except for “Big Joe”. I asked big Joe for a bus to Sigatoka where my bags would stay dry, a feature lacking on the open “Chicken Busses”. He agreed on a $5 price to find me my bus, or if the bus had gone for the day, to find a hotel. He did not run his meter, but Big Joe did not disappoint and pulled up into the bus bay next to a luxurious modern highway coach. It would not be possible to take photos through the window but it looked like it would rain all day anyway. My bags were safe and dry and for $10.40 I would be dropped off at Tubakula Lodge. I had selected that place from Lonely Planet, I don’t think it was the same place Vin & Annetta had recommended. It would be about a 2.5 hour ride and would bring me more than half way to Nadi Airport.
As predicted it rained the whole way. I was concerned for how far I might have to carry my bags in the rain once I got off the bus. But I have always been incredibly lucky. The rain lessened, the bus stopped right at their gate and the office was a few steps away.
Then came the best surprise of all. It certainly pays to travel in the ‘off season’. For $26 a night, I could have a whole backpacker’s cabin to myself! Accommodation for 5 with full bath and on-demand hot water, full kitchen with basic equipment, three burner propane stove. Except for the expensive Palmlea Farms Resort, I have never had hot water for a shower in Fiji. This pampered luxury is located among swaying palms on the beach with surf breaking over a reef. The grounds include many cabins along concrete pathways, a pool, BBQ , hammock, a lounge as part of the reception. Tough life!
I took the bus into Sigatoka, one of those Community busses we have in Sidney which takes a meandering route. But it only costs a dollar. I bought groceries for cooking in my kitchen and as I was feeling very tired and weak, I stopped for a late lunch. Very disappointing, I’ll do better with my own cooking. I had been warned that there is not much in Sigatoka. There is a very picturesque Hindu temple and a sugar cane narrow gauge railway that runs on an elevated berm through the town.
Just before dinner we lost our power for about an hour and during the night, a crash-bang thunderstorm that shook the cabin. But all is well. I could happily stay here until Sunday morning and take the 10 am bus which would get me to the airport in plenty of time. But I should not put that much faith in the arrival of one bus so I will leave Tubakula (a short distance from Sigatoka) Saturday and find yet another place to stay in Nadi. Folks have told me that there is not much to see in Nadi but at least I will then be within a short taxi ride to the airport.
If it had not been for the poor condition of the boat I was to sail, I would not have seen the Fiji that I have so appreciated.
See you all soon, and yes of course, there are more stories that have not been typed into this blog. J
No comments:
Post a Comment